Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Strawberry Shortcake (like Granny used to make it)

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Strange kitchen.


Having blogged several of my mom's mother's baked goods, I will now impart the sole dish that I learned from my dad's mother. Technically, I learned it from my mother, who learned it from Dad's mother. And technically, I don't have her exact shortcake biscuit recipe. Mom might still have it somewhere, but it never got passed on to me. (Aunt Nancy? Help?) Granny generally disliked cooking but, having married into a family with notoriously sweet teeth, became fairly proficient at dessert out of necessity. This version of strawberry shortcake is from Dad's side of the family. My mother's family makes strawberry shortcake with those horrible yellow spongy cakes from the grocery store, to which I say, ew. A homemade biscuity thing is much, much better.

So I found myself at my dad's new house for spring break, along with some rapidly wilting strawberries that had been deemed not quite awesome enough to eat as-is.

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I always have to bake something for my father, so why not strawberry shortcake?

Step zero: Preheat oven to 425. Place the beaters of your electric mixer into a very clean metal bowl, then put the bowl in the freezer.

Step one: Wash, hull, and slice about 1 quart strawberries. Taste a couple of representitive slices for sweetness. Sprinkle sugar over berries - anywhere from 1/8 to 1/3 cup, depending on how many berries you have and how sweet you want them to be. Stir a bit. Leave on the countertop while you do everything else.

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Personal tip: Do not refrigerate the berries before you slice them. They don't spoil any less quickly in the fridge, really. More importantly, trying to hull and slice cold berries is really unpleasant. Obviously, if you have syrupy leftovers, they need to go in the fridge.

In the absence of Granny's authentic biscuit recipe, I use this one from About.com, which I typically modify slightly. I do not turn the dough out and knead it properly. For two to three kneads, why bother? I just sort of mash it around in the bowl a little. I also make these as drop biscuits rather than rolled biscuits. This is mainly because I hate cleaning up after kneading and rolling sticky biscuit dough. It works fine. Nor do I brush the tops with milk or sprinkle them with sugar. Not necessary. Incidentally, you also don't need to use a buttered foil-lined baking sheet. I use an ungreased sheet. There's enough butter. It's fine.

Cooking in someone else's kitchen is always a challenge. In Grandma's kitchen, the challenge is that I don't know where anything is (and, since the kitchen was remodeled recently, neither does Grandma half the time). In Dad's kitchen, the challenge is that neither he nor his wife bake. So it's not that I can't find things, it's that they don't exist. There is a food processor, but it's a mini prep. I asked for a pastry cutter and was told "There's a pizza cutter..." So I used two steak knives to cut in the butter.

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You may also have noticed that this is a Pyrex casserole dish, not a mixing bowl. There are no proper large mixing bowls here. It's about improvising.

What you can't tell from that picture is that the flour is a little far gone. Still edible, but not so fresh. "How old is it?" I asked, because flour has, you know, a good long shelf life. I was informed that the flour was originally from St. Louis, which means a) it is at least two years old and b) they moved half a Tupperware tub of flour from St. Louis to Virginia. I...would have thrown it out in St. Louis and bought a new tub once I got to Virginia. But to each their own.

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I did encounter some objects from my childhood. This tiny mixing bowl and this 1/2 cup! I learned to measure with this very 1/2 cup (and its brothers, which have probably all melted in dishwashers now). It must be at least 25 years old. Good cup.

Gone, sadly, is the other set of mixing bowls in which I learned to mix. It was a set of three Pyrex-ish bowls. The baby bowl was yellow and the daddy bowl was red. I don't know what happened to them--maybe Mom has them? The mommy bowl was white with a pattern of abstract geometric roosters across the top rim. That bowl got broken during a particularly experimental moment in which I attempted to make homemade peanut butter cups while on Rollerblades. Yes, I was old enough to know that cooking and Rollerblades don't mix. And yes, I was allowed to Rollerblade in the house.

But I digress.

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This is how I form my biscuits. I like to get eight out of the recipe, but you could make them smaller or larger.


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This is me doing obnoxious hipster photography.


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This is what you should do while the biscuits are baking: create homemade whipped cream. You did buy heavy whipping cream, right? Whipped cream from a can is wrong. It's just wrong, folks. Maybe it's acceptable for Jell-O, but that's about it. The real stuff is so much better. (Don't even get me started on Cool Whip.) Pour about 8 oz. into your nice cold bowl, add a tablespoon or two of granulated sugar and a teaspoon or two of vanilla, and whip it.


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This is what the biscuits look like. Let 'em cool for just a few minutes. You want to eat them warm, though.

*Yes, I did deliberately line up my biscuits with the teapot. I have to have some continuity in my food photography.

After tasting these particular biscuits, which had a slight plastic Tupperware container aftertaste, it was decided to throw out the St. Louis flour and purchase Virginia flour.


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And this is what the whole thing looks like assembled. The cereal bowl and literal sundae spoon are also childhood relics. We used to have a whole set of sundae spoons. Each one was a different color. This is the last one left, though. Sigh.

Thus ends the tour of a few transplanted childhood kitchen objects.

Media pairing:



You thought I was going to post Strawberry Shortcake, didn't you? Didn't you?! WELL, I SHOWED YOU! Rainbow Brite was, and remains, superior.

I had sushi for dinner tonight and ordered a rainbow roll, too. So there.

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Sugar Cookies a la Grandma

Another goodie from the treasure trove that is my grandma's recipe box. This is from the back of a product box (Crisco and Arm & Hammer are my educated guesses) from, I believe, the late 1940s. The last step before baking involves putting sugar on the top, so the traditional thing to do in my family is to make these for Christmas with red and/or green sugar, but obviously they can be made with white sugar for color-neutral occasions. Like last night's occasion, which was me wanting cookies.

Sugar Cookies
Sift together 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (presifted), 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Set aside.

Cream 1/2 cup softened unsalted butter and 1/2 cup shortening, then add 1 cup granulated sugar, and 1 teaspoon vanilla and cream again. Add 1 egg and cream until fluffy.

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Do not announce "I'm making this recipe because it's the only one that only needs one egg," in case this happens to your only egg before the preceding sentence has even finished leaving your mouth.

Wait for boyfriend unit to go to grocery store for more eggs.

Stir in dry ingredients until mixture is smooth. This will be difficult. Then blend in 2 tablespoons milk.

Drop by teaspoons onto an ungreased cookie sheet...

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Then flatten the tops with the bottom of a water glass dipped in sugar.

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I would recommend--if you didn't already figure this out for yourself--removing any stray sugar from the cookie sheet before baking. The dough is pretty adhesive, so I usually just tip the sheet over the sugar bowl and brush it back in with the end of a paper towel or something.

Bake in a 400-degree oven until the edges are very lightly browned. The recipe says this will take 10-12 minutes, but I was taking cookies out after 8.5 and my oven is not particularly fast. The cookies are no good if you let them get too brown, so keep a close eye on them. Makes between 3-5 dozen, depending on how big your teaspoonfuls are.

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While I'm typically a purist with these cookies, last night I went experimental. Here they are with cinnamon sugar on the top.

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They were good that way.

And here they are with homemade butterscotch sauce drizzled on the top.

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The homemade butterscotch sauce is pretty freaking amazing. There's a lot of it left over, in a bowl in my fridge, and I am exercising a lot of self-control right now. It's really hard not to just grab a spoon and eat the damn stuff on its own. I didn't have kosher salt, so I used sea salt, which created a delightfully salty/sweet combination if you're one of those salted caramel folks. I think I might be.


FYI, today I made an awesome breakfast of poached eggs over cornbread with a sun-dried tomato spread. Then I made a batch of super-healthy vegan chili, which even has organic green chard in it (on sale at Whole Foods), and will hopefully combat the effects of the butterscotch-drizzled sugar cookies...

Media Pairing: This came up when I searched YouTube for "butterscotch," and combines my loves of butterscotch, late-night television, and ponies. Well, sort of.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

I found a cookbook.

It's a cookbook I purchased myself, in 2003, in Greece. It's called The Traditional Greek Cookery Book. Did I buy it for someone as a gift, and forget to give it to them, and by "them" I probably mean Leslie? We'll never know, because I've completely forgotten. The book was still in its shrink wrap. I unwrapped it. I'm stuck in Grandma's house with what appears (mercifully) to be a 24-hour bug, the Television of Endless Bowl Games, and the World's Loudest Little Brother (tm). What else was I going to do, read one of those quals books I dragged across the country with me?

Sweet zombie Jesus, this is an awesome cookbook. No, I haven't made any recipes from it yet, but there are many reasons that I already believe in its awesomeness.

1. It has no credited author, but was either written by a Greek who speaks British English in a charming second language sort of way, or was written in Greek and translated oddly.

2. The measurements are given mainly in kilos and soupspoons.

3. The recipes all have calorie counts, because "there are few things worse than cookery books which do not help one stick to one's daily programme of nutrition." One recipe calls for 2.5 cups of oil. It is not anomalous.

4. There are some accompanying illustrations, without indication as to which dish is being illustrated. This is particularly problematic in all the dishes incorporating offal and mince. It's less problematic for recipes such as Roast Suckling Pig. I can tell that that's what that is. I can't tell why it's posed on a bed of twigs and a tree stump, or why someone has made it a Dr. Seussean hat of a carved tomato stuffed with kale and perched atop a carved grapefruit rind. But then again, I've never been very good at presentation.

5. Many recipes call for the use of an oven. Nary a one specifies what temperature said oven should be. Similarly, many simply call for one or two kilos of lamb or beef, without specifying which cut is preferable. It's like when I make an apple pie--I don't need a recipe to do pie crust or filling, really; I just need a vague reminder of how much flour goes in the dough. One fish recipe begins: "Fry the fish in the usual manner." Oh. Okay then. I'll just consult the Greek grandma I don't have.

6. It does go into great detail on how to prepare your lamb for roasting on a spit. Also on how to remove a lobster brain and then incorporate the brain into a sauce.


I showed my grandfather a picture of the most colorfully illustrated recipe, Octopus with Macaroni. If you saw that episode of Top Chef All-Stars a couple of weeks ago, where they ate at top NYC restaurants and the chefs were served a crown roast of octopus, it looked like that combined with macaroni and cheese. Before I could even offer to prepare Octopus with Macaroni for Grandpa, he said, "I will decline your invitation." Should I instead offer to cook one of the many dishes calling for lamb intestines?

One thing I remember about Greek cuisine, from my brief time there, was being absolutely bombarded by kumquats. Fresh kumquats, pickled kumquats, candied kumquats, kumquat jelly, kumquat liquor. There is no mention of kumquat in this book. I call foul.

Media pairings: Well, you know. I offer a selection. (The first film relates more to the cookbook topic. The second film is better.)



Monday, December 20, 2010

Just Like Grandma Makes: Walnut Frosties

No photo here, as I am at Grandma's house without my own laptop or my camera cord. I took some photos on my cell phone, but my Bluetooth does not want to talk to my mother's MacBook's Bluetooth. Look, I'll put in placeholders for now, and maybe when the boyfriend unit arrives he can figure out how to make my phone sync with the MacBook.

[image = "picture of cookies in clear glass cookie jar, poinsettia and mixed nuts in background"]

Anyway, these are my favorite of all my grandma's cookies, aside from maybe her sugar cookies. I'll blog the sugar cookies later. These, these Walnut Frosties...to be honest, I never knew they had a proper name until tonight. And, while to me they are my grandma's cookies, they are properly attributed to Mrs. G.P. Longmire of Austin, Texas, published in ...from the 17th annual Bake-Off: The Pillsbury Busy Lady Bake-Off Recipes: 100 Prizewinning recipes...shortcutted and up-to-dated by Pillsbury...the Idea Flour (The Pillsbury Company, 1966). The ellipses are not me omitting parts of an even longer title; they are on the cover of the book.

I'm doing this now, before I inadvertently go back to the other side of the country without this recipe for, like, the twelfth time.

[image = "picture of cover of cookbook"]

[image = "picture of Walnut Frosties recipe, page 65"]

2 cups flour (technically, according to recipe, Pillsbury's Best Flour, which to be frank is probably what my grandma bakes with)
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1/2 cup butter (technically, Land O'Lakes butter, which I know for a fact is what my grandma bakes with)
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla extract

Oven 350, makes about 48 cookies

Combine flour, soda, and salt (note: Grandma sifts her flour before measuring, even if it's pre-sifted). Gradually add sugar to butter in mixing bowl, creaming until light and fluffy (note: Grandma actually does this by hand, bless her). Add egg and vanilla extract; beat well. Gradually add dry ingredients, mixing well after each addition. Shape into 1-inch balls. Place 2 inches apart on ungreased cookie sheets. Make a depression in center of each cookie; place 1 teaspoonful Topping (yes, it's capitalized) in depression (note: Grandma uses a melon baller). Bake at 350 for 12 to 14 minutes or until delicately browned.

Topping: Combine 1 cup chopped walnuts, 1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar, and 1/4 cup dairy sour cream. (The book says Diamond Walnuts, but I think we all know I'm going to buy my walnuts at Trader Joe's, where nuts are plentiful and inexpensive.)


Media pairing: We've been watching the endless Brett Favre coverage on ESPN. All you have to do is turn on ESPN and I'm pretty sure they'll be talking about Brett Favre, regardless of what time of day it is or whether they're broadcasting women's college volleyball or whatever.

Saturday, December 4, 2010

Creamy Turnip and Arugula Soup

Now that summer squash season is finally over, I thought it safe to purchase another CSA box of mystery organic vegetables.

It came stuffed to the brim with various sorts of greens. Despite a list of "what's tentatively in your box this week," I have yet to identify everything. One bunch is definitely curly kale, and one was definitely red mustard greens (I cooked them; they turned everything an enchanting shade of purple), and one is cilantro (I have no idea what to do with a giant-ass bunch of cilantro, especially since Boyfriend Unit is one of those people who thinks it tastes like soap). Two others have me completely flummoxed. One I decided was arugula.

Also in the box: two smallish turnips, two avocados, and a daikon radish. I still don't know what to do with the daikon radish, a thing which I typically encounter as a sushi garnish.

The turnips and the arugula went into this soup, which turned out delightfully and which I assume is relatively not bad for you:

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Creamy Turnip and Arugula Soup (makes...I don't know, 4 servings? Since when do I measure anything?)

2 smallish or 1 giant mutant turnip (I usually find grocery store turnips to be giant mutants)
1 medium russet potato
1 can vegetable broth
1 tablespoon crushed garlic
1 1/2 cups milk (adjust as needed)
2 large handfuls arugula, washed, destemmed, and shredded, and mostly dry
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Peel and chop turnip(s) and potato
2. Heat olive oil on stove in pot; add garlic, turnips, and potatoes and let soften a bit
3. Add vegetable broth, cover, and simmer until vegetables are soft
4. Puree the hell out of vegetables, slowly adding milk until desired consistency is reached. (NOTE: The puree is pretty creamy without the milk, so it would probably still be pretty creamy soup if you wanted to go vegan and make this with more vegetable broth)
5. Return to stove, on low heat. Add arugula and simmer until wilted. Salt and pepper to taste. I needed no additional salt, thanks to the canned vegetable broth.
6. Voila.

The assumption was that adding the potato and slightly cooking the arugula would tone down the sharpness of both arugula and turnips. The assumption was pretty correct.



Next experiment: What to do with the yams which were purchased, but not cooked, for Thanksgiving?

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Almond Coffee Cake with Apple-Amaretto Filling

My kitchen continues to be ruled by almond flour.

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Boyfriend unit has been requesting coffee cake for some time. I hadn't made one in forever. Granny Smith apples were on sale this week, so I'd bought some in case the urge to make a pie struck me (it didn't).

At this point, I think we can pretty much count on the fact that I'm going to look at previously attempted recipes in The Joy of Cooking, decide they're not complicated enough, and start EXPERIMENTING. This time, I am happy to say, the EXPERIMENTING paid off. This coffee cake is really [bleep]ing amazing. The only thing I might do differently next time is pump up the apples. Three or four might have been even more [bleep]ing amazing.


Almond coffee cake with apple-amaretto filling (I need to start thinking of punchier names for these successful EXPERIMENTS. If one occurs to me, I will edit this entry.)

FYI, I based this on a recipe for a 9x9 coffee cake and doubled everything to get a 13x9 coffee cake. The cake comes out at about three inches thick--I'm sure you could halve this recipe if you'd prefer the smaller version.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Peel, core, and slice 2 large or 3 small Granny Smith apples.
Melt 1 tbsp butter in saucepan; add apples and:
1/3 cup amaretto (optional. I have a bottle left over from the vegan cupcakes, and am determined to use it.)
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 cup sugar

Cook over medium heat until thick and syrupy.

Meanwhile, sift together in a large bowl:
2 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup almond flour
4 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt

Set aside.

Cream until light and fluffy:
1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar
Then add:
2 eggs (at room temperature)
1 1/3 cups milk (at room temperature)
1/2 tsp vanilla

Mix in dry ingredients.

Prepare streusel topping:
2/3 cup sugar
4 tbsp flour
4 tbsp butter

Blend these until crumbly (I used my mini food processor), then add:
1 tsp cinnamon

Have ready a greased 13"x9" sheet cake pan. Spread in half the batter, then add the apple filling, like so:

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Top with remaining batter, then spread streusel topping across the top:

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Bake for 25-30 minutes. It will not brown very much in the oven:

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You should also be careful, because this cake seems to cause problems with spectral dogs.

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Media Pairing: I can't think of anything in particular that goes with this cake. So I will give you two things I watched before making it.

First, I saw a preview screening of Black Swan last weekend, and it was also pretty [bleep]ing awesome--rather evocative of early Polanski, but actually good (I hate Polanski on principle because of the rape thing and therefore refuse to see his films unless a professor makes me. One made me see The Tenant, and I hated it because it is boring and self-indulgent). To a degree, one must turn off one's training in post-Freud. post-Lacan psychoanalytic gender studies, because Black Swan requires an active investment in female hysteria, but still. It was delightfully creepy. Here's the trailer:



Mind, all the characters are ballet folks, and therefore are all various degrees of borderline eating disordered and would have nothing to do with this cake, but that's their loss.

Second, Patrick Stewart on Extras:



Andy Millman would totally eat my coffee cake, since he is a...



...little fat man with a pug-nosed face.

<3 Ricky Gervais.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Applesauce, and Cinnamon Almond Applesauce Bread

I am in Los Angeles. We don't really have seasons. Sometimes that's kind of a bummer. Other times it's nice.

Boyfriend Unit's family is from New England, where autumn is a regional obsession. Sweaters! Scarves! Hats! Boots! The leaves change color! Everyone drinks Dunkin' Donuts coffee (oh wait, they do that in summer too)! Also, there is apple picking.

One day last week, I came home to find that Boyfriend Unit's aunt had gone apple picking and picked us some apples, which she mailed here.

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It was exceedingly nice of her to do so, and I'm sure they were lovely apples when picked. They did not, however, survive the journey without severe bruising. I let them sit on the counter for a few days while trying to figure out what to do with them. They were McIntoshes, so pie was out of the question. The apples grew increasingly fragrant. Finally, when the entire apartment began to smell of New England Fall (minus the damp leaves), I made applesauce.

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I made a lot of applesauce. Consult your Joy of Cooking. Don't put in as much cinnamon as I put in. I also added ground cloves and a bit of nutmeg (because clearly, applesauce should taste like apple pie). This is 3x a Joy of Cooking recipe. I had a lot of apples.

Then I realized that I had a lot of applesauce, which I eat but Boyfriend Unit doesn't.

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"You COULD let me eat the applesauce," said Gromit. "Or you could stop taking pictures of me and give me a cookie. You're probably just going to make the applesauce into bread anyway, and for some reason, I won't be allowed to eat any of it."

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My dog is pretty smart.

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"But why can't I have any? IT SMELLS GOOD AND I AM SO CUTE."



Cinnamon Almond Applesauce Bread
Mix:
1 cup applesauce, preferably homemade
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/3 cup vegetable oil
3/4 cup brown sugar, packed (adjust according to sweetness of applesauce; mine was pretty sweet to start with, and this turned out about right)
1 tsp vanilla
Cinnamon, nutmeg, and ground cloves to taste, if applesauce is unspiced (I'd go for 1 tsp, 1/4 tsp and 1/4 tsp, respectively)

In another bowl, sift together:
1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup almond flour (seriously, this is my favorite discovery of the year--it makes things awesome)
1 tsp baking soda
3/4 tsp salt

Add dry ingredients to wet and mix until blended. If desired, stir in:
1/3 cup chopped, julienned, or sliced almonds

Pour into greased loaf pan. I chose to garnish the top with some sliced almonds. A streusel topping would also be highly appropriate.

Bake @ 350 degrees for 50 minutes or until done.

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Refuse to share with dog, thus making him pouty.

Media Pairing: I got fourteen apples, but that's a big number (I'm in the humanities). We should start with ten.

Monday, October 11, 2010

Pumpkin Bread to Inspire Shouting

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Okay, I'm going to confess something terrible right now: while I love pumpkin pie beyond all reason, I don't go crazy for other pumpkin-flavored things. In fact, many of the seasonal pumpkin things rather baffle me. I tried a pumpkin latte from Starbucks once, and found it unworthy of trying again (and definitely unworthy of the price tag). I have not tried Jamba Juice's pumpkin smoothie, because quite frankly, I find the combination of icy/pumpkin both perplexing and upsetting. Why would you want to DRINK something that tastes like a PIE? A pumpkin pie is already in its ideal state. It shouldn't be frozen and go through a straw. It should be custardy, served in a flaky pastry crust, topped with obscene amounts DIY whipped cream (a little sugar, a lot of vanilla). I made just such a pie last week, but did not blog it, because the ideal pumpkin pie recipe is the one on the back of the Libby's can with a little extra cinnamon added.

This pumpkin bread is pretty good, too. It's sort of the inspiration for this little Society of Cinnamon and Media Studies - I posted the recipe on Facebook and there was a lot of virtual yelling. It's also inspired actual yelling, in our department offices, directed at me and coming from our office manager. Something about how I must have laced the bread with illicit substances because she couldn't stop eating it.

Unless bourbon vanilla is an illicit substance, I have done no such thing.

In the interests of full disclosure, I stole this recipe from somewhere on the internet, but the stolen version turned out not that great. I've made changes. I'm still making changes. I am TINKERING. It's good enough to publish now, though.


Set oven to 350 and grease two loaf pans.

Mix:
15 oz. (one can) pumpkin
4 eggs, lightly beaten
2/3 to 3/4 cup vegetable oil
2/3 cup water
3 cups white sugar OR 2 cups white, one cup light brown
1 tsp. vanilla

Sift:
3 1/2 cups flour
2 tsp. baking soda
1 1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
1/2 tsp. cloves
1/2 tsp. ginger

Add dry ingredients to wet and mix until just blended.

Optional: Add 1 to 1 1/2 cups nuts (walnuts! pecans! almonds! possibly cashews although I haven't tried that and it sounds weird even though cashews are my favorite! hazelnuts would probably not be good!), 3/4 cup dried cranberries, OR (I just tried this for the first time, but haven't tasted it yet; if it's bad, you can blame my Aunt Nancy whose idea it was) 3/4 cup chocolate chips.

Bake for 50-60 minutes or until done.



I'll probably be hanging around campus with some of this stuff tomorrow. I can't eat two loaves of pumpkin bread by myself. I'll share if you're nice.

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Ginger Peach Muffins

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Wow, our posting has really slowed down since fall semester started! Who'd have thunk it?

I'm supposed to be working on screening documents this weekend, and I swear to God I have been. But I need the occasional break. Also, I had a very vivid dream last week about ginger peach muffins, which I'm sure I had never eaten before--or even seen, although a quick scan of the interwebs tells me that they are not unknown.

The ginger peach muffins in my dream (which had flavors. I don't often have dreams with flavors) were laced with a gingery swirl, sort of like the marzipan swirl in Ben & Jerry's "Mission to Marzipan" ice cream, a flavor which Amber and I have discussed in some detail. But I don't know quite how to make ginger-flavored marzipan in the first place, let alone how to put it into a muffin. However, I did have a basic muffin recipe from The Joy of Cooking, and some ideas about how to make the muffin taste good even if I couldn't recreate the swirl from my dream. So, moving on!

The next problem I encountered was the Inferior California Peach.

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Look at that. That is a ripe yellow peach. That is the best ripe yellow peach I could find (at a reasonable price). I usually don't think of myself as Southern, but I did grow up in Georgia, and damn if I can't tell a Superior Georgia Peach from an Inferior California One.

The peach was so wimpy that I decided to saute it first.

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Because a combination of:
1 tbsp butter, melted
1/3 cup sugar
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/2 tsp ginger
1/2 tsp cinnamon

is guaranteed to improve almost everything, including:
1 ripe yellow peach, peeled, pitted, and finely diced

Saute it until the peach is soft and the syrup is syrupy (around 5 minutes), then remove from heat and let cool. Meanwhile, whisk together in a large bowl:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt

And in another large bowl, whisk thoroughly:
2 large eggs
1 cup milk
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp amaretto (optional. I have a bottle from the cupcake experiment, so probably a lot of things I bake over the next couple of months will have amaretto in them.)
Cooled peach mixture

Make a well in the dry ingredients, then add wet and blend quickly, with only a few strokes. The batter should still be lumpy. Spoon into a cupcake pan - you'll want paper liners.

Before baking, sprinkle a few tiny pieces of diced candied ginger and about 1 tsp quick-cooking oats over each muffin. Like so:

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Bake at 400 degrees for 18-20 minutes.

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They puff nicely.

Option: If you like ginger more than I do (I don't love ginger so much, really), you could finely dice more candied ginger and add that to the batter. It does turn out that finely dicing candied ginger is hella annoying, because it goes all soft and sticky as soon as you try to manipulate it.

I also wish these were a tiny bit peachier. Or maybe my sample muffin just got short shrift on the peach bits. But I might try this with two (small) peaches next time.

Media Pairing: Sing it with me! "My muffin top is all that, whole grain, low-fat..."

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Recipe review: Chef Chloe's Vegan Raspberry Tiramisu Cupcakes

As you have probably guessed from the fact that nearly every baking experiment I've blogged has involved massive, massive quantities of butter, I am not a vegan. But I've been meaning to try some vegan baking--partially because I'm curious, partially because I might one day want to bake something for a person who is allergic to eggs or dairy (or, you know, is vegan. I do live in California, after all, and "are you vegan" is not really a weird question). And my dissertation has suddenly taken an animal rights sort of bent. So when I read an article in the New York Times recently, and it linked to a recipe for apparently very good raspberry tiramisu cupcakes, I thought, "why the hell not?" even though I don't watch Cupcake Wars. Somewhere in my mind, I am aware that "why the hell not" is not always a valid reason to do something. But we're talking about cupcakes here, so why the hell not? I like raspberry, and I like tiramisu, and I like cupcakes, so I went to Whole Foods and bought vegan hippie food things and their lavender-scented shampoo which I love because it makes my hair shiny (and look, I eat butter, but I don't see any reason for toiletries and cosmetics to involve animal products or testing), and then I also went to Ralphs, because the lemons at Whole Foods were a dollar each which is absurd, and also Whole Foods doesn't stock amaretto.

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My cupcakes are not as pretty as the ones pictured on Chef Chloe's blog. I did not go to the trouble and/or expense of buying carob, mint leaves, and fresh raspberries to garnish. Thus, what with the coffee-amaretto frosting, my cupcakes look a little bit like poo. I can admit that.

I think they taste more or less okay. There are some weird textural issues, and I don't know if they're my fault, or if vegan cake is just like this. Mainly, the cupcakes tested clean with the toothpick, but they seem a little underdone. Vaguely oily. The bottoms of my cupcake papers were greasier than non-vegan cupcakes. I don't know.

Problem two: the cake recipe calls for coconut milk. I love coconut and can't taste it at all in the cake. The boyfriend unit hates coconut, and thought the cake tasted overwhelmingly of coconut.

Problem three: The "soaking liquid" and raspberry sauce combine to make this a very soggy cupcake, indeed. Scroll back up to the finished cupcake. You can see that the teaspoonful or so of espresso-flavored amaretto has soaked clean through to the bottom of the paper.

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This is not a cupcake to be picked up in one's hand and eaten like a cupcake. This is a cupcake requiring plates and forks.

Problem three and a half: The recipe doesn't say anything about straining the raspberry sauce. I loathe picking seeds out of my teeth, so I strained it. But maybe the seeds were meant to keep it thick in some way.

Problem four (not really a problem, but I'm mentioning it anyway): The frosting is really, really, really sweet. (Also, recipe says two tablespoons of water, but I needed four, and also added another two tablespoons of soaking liquid to it.) The raspberry sauce and soaking liquid are, respectively, tart and bitter (though the former has sugar).

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If you manage to get all of the components in one bite, it's pretty good. If you don't, it's either tart, bitter, or makes your teeth crumble right out of your head. Since the cupcakes do not have tops and the frosting is stiff, you pretty much have to pipe the frosting on, which means there is more frosting, which means more feeling like your teeth are crumbling.



I need an actual vegan to come eat the cupcakes and tell me if I've done this right and vegan baked goods are just like this, or if I actually did something wrong somewhere. One of the professors I'm TAing for this year is a vegetarian, and his daughter owns a vegan bake shop somewhere on the east coast. He asked to read one of my academic papers a few weeks ago; showing up on Monday with a cupcake and asking for a critique of it is similar, right?

Media Pairing: I haven't seen this film yet--like so many other films I'm supposed to have seen by now, it is languishing in my Netflix queue. Regardless, may I recommend Examined Life? The director, Astra Taylor, and her sister Sunny Taylor (who's in the film, and pictured briefly here in the trailer, with Judith Butler) are both vegans/animal rights activists/all-around awesome people. We used to be in a homeschool group together, back in the years when we would've been in middle school (or Sunny and I would've been; Astra's a few years older). Support independent documentary filmmaking!



Slavoj Zizek appears to be dressed as a construction worker. What's not to like?